The first thing you notice in Lofoten is the light. In June it never really leaves; it just slides along the ridges until it is morning again. I spent ten days moving slowly from one end of the islands to the other, by bus, by ferry and on foot.
This is the route I would follow again, with the places I stayed, the hikes that were worth the effort and the ones I would skip.
Days 1 to 3: Svolvær and Henningsvær
Fly into Svolvær or take the coastal ferry from Bodø. Spend the first evening on the harbour, then walk up Fløya the next morning for the view over the town and the open sea.
Days 4 to 7: the western villages
Hamnøy, Reine and Å sit close together, and this is where the islands look like their postcards. Book early: the red rorbu cabins fill months ahead in summer.
Go up Reinebringen early. By ten the stairs are a queue, by six they are yours.
From Reine, a small ferry crosses to Vindstad, the start of an easy walk to Bunes beach. Bring lunch: there is nothing there but sand and cliffs.
Days 8 to 10: slowing down
Spend the last days without a plan. Rent a bike, swim if you dare, and watch the sun refuse to set one more time.
